Cosmetic acids for skin |Meritxell's blog

Acids in general, both of natural and chemical origin, in brief words act so that the skin is exfolia, thus it is more easily renewed and stimulates collagen production.

Hydroxy-acids in general are one of the most used components in anti-aging cosmetics.Since they are effective and can improve the problem of photo leading, wrinkles, skin hydration and elasticity.

How do they act?

These act in the two levels of the dermal and epidermal skin.When applied to the skin, the exfoliation of the epidermal cells of the stratum corneum is stimulated when interfering in ionic bonds between the cells and thus eliminating the oldest cells improving the outer appearance of the skin, which makes it very effective in problemsof hyperkeratosis by stimulating natural skin turn ".

Hydroxy-acids have the ability to penetrate to dermis where they have an important anti-agency action by stimulating mucopolysacarids, such as hyaluronic acid, improving the quality of elastin fibers and improving the density of the collagen, thereby achieving agreater thickness of the dermal layer.

It also stimulates the expression of the gene responsible for the production of collagen and hyaluronic.

Years ago since we know that AHA (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHA (beta hydroxyacids) are very effective in the skin, most of these are coming from fruits.

Aha, Alfa-Hidroxy-acids

They are carboxylated acids that are found naturally in many foods, such as glycolic in cane sugar, lactic in milk, citrus in citrus fruits, the malic in apples, the mandelic in bitter almonds.

These are hydrosoluble.

Bha, beta-hydroxy-acidic

Such as salicylic acid, they are very similar to the first but they are fat -soluble, which means that they are not dissolved in water.Having a lipid structure, it can penetrate the skin through sebaceous follicles so it is especially appropriate in people with dilated pores problems and acne and acne.

Some bha, are less irritating than Aha.

For example, glycolic acid can sensitize the skin in front of the sun, however salicylic has anti -inflammatory action also and is less irritating.

Does not include retinoic acid, or the acidic form of vitamin A, since I have a specific post for this.

Although there are many more acids of natural origin that can be used or found although in this post I only explain the most common or known.

AHA Y BHA IN SUMMER

A common characteristic when using this type of products, is that this exfoliation will force us to use a solar filter on the skin since the skin is thinner and more unprotected.

Although they will stimulate the production of hyaluronic and this will be more hydrated, so if a high -graduation solar filter is used during the day there is no problem in using a cosmetic with any of these components during the night.On the contrary, the skin will look much more radiant.

Although all AHA and BHA, they act in a similar way, they have different characteristics that will make them more useful in one or another type of skin.

How to use them

Depending on the concentration that we are going to use and if it is for personal, aesthetic or medical use, the way to use them will be very different.

Generally my advice is to start with doses between 5% and 7% depending on skin sensitivity, thickness and if it is a skin with more fat tendency, which will resist higher concentrations.

I preferably prefer to recommend these products during the night and use a cosmetic that provides hydration during the day and protection.If the skin has a tendency to fat, the ideal is to use a gel type product, if on the contrary it has a tendency to dry a richer cream can be used.

In the eye contour, if an AHA is going to be used, it must have a very soft concentration, no more than 2%.I do not advise applying it daily, since the skin of this area is especially sensitive and fine.

When we use AHA, it is preferable not to use vitamin C although if the skin is already accustomed to these acids, a serum toll or a few drops can be used during the day before the cream.Since vitamin C is equally an acid.If these ampoules contain proteoglycans or other soothing components, they can help the skin look more smooth, after having used AHA a few days.

If you want to combine retinol and AHA, it should be done only in specific cases, such as the elimination of spots and under medical or pharmaceutical supervision, since retinol is very exfoliating and together with the hydroxyacids you run the risk of irritations and redness.

If high concentrations of up to 20%are going to be used, it is very likely that some itching in the skin will be noticed, so the first days it is advisable to limit the time of application of the same.Start, for example, with 15 minutes and increase progressively.

After a high concentration of hydroxyacids the skin is much more receptive and will capture nutrients and water.

SALICYLIC ACID

The original natural source of salicylic acid is the sauce bark or the trees of your family.

Although currently this acid is of entirely synthetic elaboration based on the amino acid phenylalanine.

Also from salicylic acetyl acid, salicylic acid can be extracted through a chemical process in the laboratory.It is shaped like small white crystals.

From ancient Greece, Hippocrates already talked about the use of the sauce's crust for different functions such as eliminating fever and pain.Although from the nineteenth century, it is classified as bha, beta hydroxi acids.During the twentieth century, it is when it begins to be used as exfoliant for the skin.

This acid has an important keratonylic acid.It is advised in thicker skin such as masculine, fats or acneic skins.

As I said before is one of the acids used to avoid the obstruction of pores and exfoliation and formation of new skin cells.

Having the ability to penetrate the follicles, in turn it has the ability to clean the pore in the deepest layers which makes it specifically beneficial for acne.

In dandruff problems, it is also effective for this, it is usually used in shampoo with concentrations from 8 to 12%.When applied in shampoo, it also serves to exfoliate the scalp that suffers from seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff.

The exfoliating and keratolithic action is already effective at 2%.

Although it has anti -inflammatory action, it can also irritate the skin.

It should be used in low concentrations at the beginning and as the skin is likely, the concentration of it can be increased.

Likewise, if the skin is too irritated, it is advisable to stop this application to start again after a few days when the skin has standardized.

For acneic skins it is one of the most appropriate and recommended, in fact a large majority of antiacné treatments include it in its formulation.Concentrations are usually higher, starting 8% is usual, also depending on whether or not the formulation has been buffered or not increased pH.

In acneic skins, if anti -cené soaps or lotions are also being used that can contain alcohol or other agents that are at the same time irritating such as benzoyl peroxide, special attention must be paid.

Salicylic acid weakens the unions of old and new cells, thus allows old cells to be removed (keratinolitic function).This action is especially beneficial for people who have acne since by eliminating dead cells, the pore is capped and grains occur.

It has antimicrobial properties and antiseptic action, also avoiding infections of the sebaceous gland and consequently the grain or pustule.

The strong exfoliating action that has it ideal to help clean the pore.

Having an important exfoliating action is an effective acid when previous acne lesions are suffered since it helps to refine the complexion.

Like the other acids and exfoliation it is effective to eliminate wrinkles, especially fine lines.

Many depigmenting products also include this component to improve the effect of depigmenting agent.

It is also used to remove calluses, adding it in the form of an ointment, the skin is exfolia, soften until the callus is easily eliminated.

For warts equally eliminates them, although it cannot be used in genital warts.

In psoriasís, when the skin has been thickened, a cream containing a slight salicylic concentration can be applied.

It can also be used in pilaris keratosis problems.

GLYCOLIC ACID

Glycolic acid is perhaps the most popular of all AHA.

And the smallest AHA.

This is a crystalline colorless powder without almost smell.

This acid is made in the laboratory from chloroacetic acid and sodium hydroxide.

Although natural origin is the extraction of sweet plants such as cane sugar, pineapple or sugar beet.

The first times the AHA were used, towards the 70s when products were sought to eliminate the plates of psoriasís.

It has keratinolic action like all other acids.

Glycolic acid can be used in very different concentrations, from 4% to 20% when used in home products.

If a professional is going to do it, the concentration can be much higher to 70% (exclusive medical use), in which the application time must be controlled, and stop this action by buffing the pH.

As I have already explained at the beginning of this post the AHA among them glycolic acid, it has the ability to destroy the ties that unite proteins, so this is capable of removing stains or skin dry more.

High concentration medical treatments are based on the elimination of the outermost layer of the skin, the epidermis and even a part of the dermis.Therefore, in addition to eliminating spots, it will also be useful to wrinkles.

Glycolic acid is also a hygroscopic molecule so it will help improve skin hydration.

It stimulates collagen production.An inherent action of all AHA.Collagen being a structural protein helps the skin remain firm and improve the appearance of wrinkles.

When we use it at low concentration, it helps to hydrate skin.

It can be used in all skin types, provided there are no injuries in the same.

The skin adapts to concentration glycolic acid, so if this is used for a long time, to want to have the same effect, the concentration must be increased progressively.

Although if only skin hydration is desired, with a not very high dose (5%) is sufficient.

It is usually added in the specific formulas for skin spots, although it is not advisable to use it during pregnancy or breastfeeding.

If the outerder skin.

My personal advice is that it is preferable to use this component for periods and make breaks to maintain efficiency.

This is one of the most used AHA in photo downs, helping to eliminate fine wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.

Negatively, a sensation of pecking or light burning is normal and the irritation of the skin especially in the most sensitive skins.

When glycolic acid is combined with other components such as arginine improves the release of glycolic acid in the skin, avoiding very important skin irritation.

If this component is used to use, it is advisable, apply it on the first day for a few hours and not very high concentration, the exposure time is progressively increased and the concentration of the same can be increased.

Malic acid

Malic acid is another type of AHA, which is found in fruits such as apple.For example, he is responsible for the acidic flavor of green apples.It is also in the wine.When fruits ripen, wheel acid is transformed into lactic acid.

It is used in food, we get the acid taste of some foods, sweets ...

It is also used as a natural preservative.

This acid is present in our body cells, in a lot of amount so that it is formed and breaks daily in normal metabolism.

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It helps to improve the immune system, improve oral health, reduce the toxicity of heavy metals and improve the firmness and smoothness of the skin.

Malic acid is part of the Krebs cycle, this metabolic cycle that occurs in the mitochondria and responsible for energy production.

It has an important solubility and few hygroscopic properties and with heavy metals capacity.

In fibromyalgia and chronic fatigue it is usually ingested together with magnesium.

This acid is not very irritating so it can be used in people with the most sensitive skin.

It is located inside the cells and is part of cell energy.

It is often used in toothpastes and mouthwash, to avoid caries and enzymatic problems.Since it stimulates saliva production and thus decreases the number of bacteria and germs avoiding the risk of infections.

It is usually used to regulate the pH of many cosmetics.

Like the others AHA, they have the ability to remove dead cells from the outermost part of the skin.It helps the skin to be thinner, improve the texture of the skin and to improve the brightness of it.

By penetrating the skin, it improves the production of collagen, acts in synergy with the other acids such as lactic, citrus, mandelic or glycolic.

Recent studies in dermatology, report that using malic acid combined with vitamin C can help reduce melasma.

When wheel acid is used in combination with other hydroxyacids, it should not exceed 10% and pH not less than 3.5.

Aesthetic centers can use concentrations of up to 30%, and pH not less than 3.

Compared to the other acids, the Málico is the most similar to glycolic in terms of skin penetration capacity (exfoliation) and hydration, it is also the one that together the glycolic is more balanced these two actions.

LACTIC ACID

Another type of AHA.

This type of acid is produced by the body when exercising a lot.

Bacteria also produce lactic acid by fermenting lactose, one of the milk sugars.

Lactic acid is found in lactic fermented products, such as kefir, yogurt or fresh cheese.

It is usually added in food since it is also one of the authorized additives.

It is usually added to soaps, shampoo and other cleaners, especially specific for dry skin.

It has just like the rest of the keratolithic properties, so it helps eliminate dead cells.With this we managed to improve fine wrinkles, improves the firmness of the skin and brightness.

This acid is softer than others and can be used in sensitive skin softer than glycolic acid.

This acid has the ability to penetrate the most internal layer of the skin with it we stimulate the synthesis of collagen and elastin, these are part of the structure of the epithelial matrix.

It also helps to display the skin that has been pigmented by excess sun.

It also improves and increases the lipid barrier of the skin, by increasing skin ceramides.Help improve skin tone at 5% concentrations.

It is ideal when the skin is dry, since it helps to hydrate the skin, even the most sensitive, has the ability to attract water and keep it in interstitial spaces.

Some doctors use this acid up to 70%.

At home they are usually 10%.

Some cosmetics in their composition add lactic acid, however we should not consider it as an exfoliant, they are simply to adjust the pH.

Like the others AHA, some redness or skin irritation is normal the first days of using it until the skin adapts.

It is important not to apply these products in the eye contour, lips or mucous.Nor should it be applied if there is any skin injury.

It is the principle of milk baths.

Mandelic acid

This acid is the one that is extracted from bitter almonds, it has important antibacterial actions, so it is also used in pharmacological and oral medication.

Like the others AHA, the mandelic acid has beneficial properties in the skin, improves cell regeneration, eliminating dead cells.Improves the elimination of fine layers of dead cells of the stratum corneo.

Having the finest corneal stratum, the skin better reflects light and looks prettier.Soft and more rejuvenated.

Improves the appearance of fine wrinkles.

Improves photojection and stimulates collagen production in the dermis.

The advantage of the mandelic in front of glycolic acid is that it causes less redness.

When the skin is very pigmented, many people use AHA to improve, although these products can irritate the skin more and that causes melanin formation and especially in people who have dark skin complexion.

But this acid is especially specific to acne and post acne spots, if used regularly.

So it is specific for skins with acne and melasma.

With the mandelic acid, this problem seems to be less, and specific for specially irritated skins.

So this acid can also be used in rosacea, spots and infections and inflammations.

The antibacterial capacity of this acid can improve people with acne problems.So many dermatologists combine mandelic acid with salicylic acid.

Also thanks to its anti -inflammatory properties, they think to be used in skins with a tendency to inflammation such as skin red or acne and rosacea.

It is in many cosmetics, which have cosmetic action, both moisturizing, exfoliating, acne and anti -inflammatory.

CITRIC ACID

This acid is the one that occurs in citrus fruits, such as its name, Lima Limón, Orange or Pomelos.

Having a bitter and acid taste can be one of the most used additives in many foods and drinks.

It is one of the oldest components used.

In 1893 it was when the first solution could be prepared, the knetific.

C.Wehmer, by fermenting sugar with penicillin, citric acid occurred.

As data, after the First World War, it was difficultfrom sugars.

Citric acid is a product that is usually used very often as an additive to adjust the pH of products, food, cosmetics or others, so although we see it on the label of a product does not mean that it has an exfoliating effect for example, since it depends a lot on concentration.

When the citric acid is applied directly to the skin, it acts like AHA.And exfolia cells improving the complexion of fine lines, wrinkles and stretch marks.

Improve skin cleaning.In acne also to uncover the pores.

The advantage over other components is that this acid can be combined with minerals and other components that can be beneficial for the skin.

The esters formed by citric acid forms a protective film in the skin which protects it from dehydration.One of the very moisturizing formed components are the tricapril citrate.

Aluminum citrate, aluminum combination and citric acid, is used as an astringent in cosmetic products.

They help close the pores, so they are used in acneic skin and with the dilated pore.Also in fat and mixed skin.

Another derivative of citric acid that is ethyl citrate, which is usually applied in the hair, in lacas.

Combining zinc with citric acid, zinc citrate that prevents plate or tartar in the teeth is achieved, so it is usually added in toothpaste and whitish.

Azelaic acid

Azelaic acid is one of the acids considered most powerful, and effective in the skin with acne, inflammation and hyperpigmentation of the skin.We can find this acid from wheat, barley and rye.

This acid is naturally equally antibacterial, so it can be used in acne.

When applied topically it reduces the growth of bacteria in the follicles and helps prevent inflammation and eliminate dead cells and prevent acne.

This acid can be used in sensitive and inflamed skin to help decrease the inflammation of it, such as rosacea and rosacea acne, which makes it an excellent treatment to calm and soften inflamed skin.

As I said at the beginning, this acid is extracted from different species of cereals, including wheat and barley, the natural function of this acid in plants is to protect them.

When azelaic acid contacts a pathogenic substance, the acelaic acid secrete plant can already act in front of the pathogens.

In addition, it stimulates the production of salicylic acid, an important chemical necessary to fight with these potentials.

Acelaic acid in the industry is made, passing ozone by oleic acid.This important raw material is obtained from other plants or animals that produce oleic acid.

This components is usually combined with other components to prepare creams, lotions and gels.

The concentrations start at 4% to 20%, when higher concentrations are used under medical consultation.

This acid is especially effective in acne, since it is very antibacterial.That is why if acne is not suffered, it is preferable to use another type of acid.If the results are not visible after one or two months, it is recommended to stop the use of the same.

Since 2007, it is also used in acelaic acid to bleach the skin.Scientists say this occurs thanks to the fact that this interferes with melanin production.

As this product can act in a timely manner it is ideal for treating melasma, skin spots for age and freckles.

Some products combine, 20% azelaic acid with glycolic acid, to improve skin pigmentation, in addition to exfoliating the same.

If 4% hydroquinone is also added, the effect is very important.

It does not have many side effects, although it is possible that it causes irritation, burns, or dryness, in high concentrations.

My recommendations

It is complicated.

The AHA and BHA, with the highest concentrations, are usually sold in pharmacies, in other types of places that are sold cosmetics, have lower concentrations, so that all people are safer if the recommendation of aprofessional.

High power neostrata, resurface

Contains 5% glycolic, 3% lactobionic, 2% citrus.

As antiageing treatment.

Sesderma Salises Moisturizing Gel

Salicylic Acid 1.5%, 4% nicotinamide, 2.5% Complex Seborregulator, soothing, 1% Aloe Vera, Zinc salts, Boswellic acid and hyaluronic acid.

As anti -cené treatment.

SESDERMA AZELAC RU

Azelaic acid, 4-butylresorcinol, díacetyl boldina, undecilenoil phenylalanine, glycoside ascorbil, glycirritinic acid, retinol, niacinamide.

As treatment for melasma and spots.

Eucerin Dermopurifyer

Water, cyclometicone, glycerin, tapioca starch, methylpropanediol, lactic acid, decilenglicol, dimeticonol, sodium chloride, xantano rubber, sodium stearoilglutamate, perfume.

As anti -cené treatment.