By Marta Martínez Tato
In the same way that 30-year-old skin does not require the same care as 50-year-old skin, makeup has also if it is different, this is how José Luis García-Berjano, Givenchy Make-up Artist, recommends it, who explains that over the years the hydrolipidic base of the face reduces and it is very important to adapt the cosmetic routine to each vital moment. Good makeup can restore juiciness and luminosity, you just have to know what to do and, above all, what not to do. These would be the 10 steps for (almost) professional makeup.
In make-up and, more than anything, in make-up for mature skin, you have to avoid over-make-up because, as Gisela Bosque, National Make-up Artist at Sephora, says, contrary to what is can think about making up adds years instead of subtracting them. “Intense coverage foundations accentuate the relief of the face, powders highlight wrinkles or fine lines, and pearlescent foundations make the skin appear older. That is why it is advisable to bet on textures that provide comfort, that keep the skin hydrated and juicy and, above all, that do not dry out or mark expression lines”.
In the case of mature skin, this is a mandatory step, as Eliecer Prince, National Make-up Artist at Guerlain, assures: “not only does it even out the tone and provide longer-lasting makeup, it also helps to blur the lines of expression and stains”.
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Gisela Bosque, from Sephora, recommends two types of makeup: “The glow finish bases give a super healthy effect on more mature skin and now many of them are long-lasting and do not transfer. If we are looking for this moisturizing and comforting effect on the skin, it is advisable to opt for liquid foundations and those with a creamier texture, even so, the skin type must always be taken into account, so that the foundation melts and we do not feel heavy ” .
To spread makeup, Sephora's National Make-up artist recommends using a sponge or Beauty blender, since when wet before use it is always cold, which decongests the skin and helps distribute makeup evenly and quickly . If you do not defend yourself well with this tool, the expert then recommends the use of a brush, "they will give us a more professional finish and allow us to create natural or more intense effects depending on how we blend it."
This is a trick that Guerlain's national make-up artist gives us, "covering dark circles gets older than illuminating the eye contour to gain light and expressiveness," she says, and for this reason she recommends avoiding the most covering concealers and replacing them with illuminators.
Although José Luis García-Berjano, from Givenchy, clarifies that the way we put on eye makeup is something very personal and depends on the morphology of our features, in general, it is recommended to avoid strident or very bright colors, staying with soft shades of natural tones, such as pinks, earths, beige, mauve...
If you are one of those who does not leave home without your eye line, Gisela Bosque gives a trick to facilitate its application since the possible crow's feet and folds do not make it easy: “raise your chin and look down so that the eyelids are semi-closed and draw the line at that moment with a very fine liquid eyeliner." As for the eyelashes, "the more curled, the more youthful the look will be," he says, and for this reason choose a mascara of eyelashes that gives us the proper curvature is the priority.
One of the effects of the passage of time on the face in the loss of density in the eyebrows, leaving unpopulated areas for this reason, the Sephora expert insists on not neglecting this part of the makeup. The objective in this case is to gain thickness, so it is recommended to always use an eyebrow pencil a shade lighter than the natural color, so that they do not turn out to be too hard, and repopulate them if necessary with fiber gels.
It is very important, explains the Givenchy expert, to choose a product whose texture is comfortable and long-lasting, “even if the finish is matte, I consider it essential that it contains treatment in its formulation. In this way, we will keep the area hydrated and prevent it from marking the so-called 'barcode'.
On the other hand, textures that are too melting can help the lipstick to move, so I recommend outlining the lips with a waterproof pencil.”
Eliecer Prince from Guerlain, tells us how to apply the lip liner: “When the contour of the lips is no longer so well defined, it is interesting to outline them to restore a harmonious shape, but better after painting them and with a little more tone Of course, it does not have the opposite effect of marking the irregularities even more”.
Finally, for blush, the Guerlain expert insists on the importance of a juicy finish and that is why she recommends cream blushes. Another important point is to blend it very well so that it blends with the skin.
The secret to impeccable makeup after 50 lies above all in not leaving any step undone. Although it is important at all ages, it is fundamental at this age: “the best weapons are to use complete treatments: remove make-up and cleanse the skin well, apply serum and moisturizing day cream, the use of primers or primers, or depending on the style of each person, BB Cream can be a great ally. And always liquid highlighters”, explains Gisela Bosque.
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